Robyn Eckhardt writes: We love foods old-fashioned, tried-and-true, and solidly dependable. But there's nothing wrong with new, especially when it tastes like this.We give you: kuih cendol, a layer of agar-agar jelly made with coconut milk and shot through with cendol 'noodles', topped with another layer made with gula Melaka. Cute in concept and pretty to look at, but how about the flavor? Well, imagine the tastiest cendol you've ever eaten and subtract the ice. The 'noodles' are firm and redolent of pandan leaf, the coconut layer is as coconuty-lemak as a jelly can possibly be, and the gula layer evinces palm sugar-ish sweetness tamed by a hint of smoke....